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Cà del Magro – Custoza superiore 2020   POINTS: 17

Full bottle 1,334 g. Garganega, Trebbiano Toscano, Cortese, Incrocio Manzoni. Fruit comes from a 55-year-old single vineyard in the Sommacampagna area, south-east of Lake Garda, 100–150 m, calcareous and clay soils. Picked beginning of September to mid October. The grapes go through the soft pressing process with a previous period of cold soaking. Fermentation in steel tanks, on the lees at controlled temperature with frequent and soft pumpovers. The wine is aged in concrete tanks. In bottle for at least six months before being released to the market.
Flowers and citrus, a white-nut creaminess. White pepper. Linden and honey. There is so much on the nose, I almost forgot to taste it. But here is another Monte del Frà wine that buzzes the mouth with its vivacious vibrato energy and acidity, and yets glides into the finish, soft and seamlessly smooth. Mimosa, linden blossom, crunchy green-skinned apples but also the softness of white pears and a touch of golden spice. Bay leaf and a very very slight hint of orange-flower honey. I can taste the wet white stones of the 2021 Custoza, but here it’s stronger on the finish than in the mid point of the wine. Long with hidden power lingering beneath beguiling accessibility. Underpriced. VGV (TC)

Custoza 2021    POINTS: 16.5

Full bottle 1,321 g. Screwcap. Garganega, Trebbiano Toscano, Cortese. Vineyards from Sommacampagna in the southeast of Lake Garda, 100 to 150 m, on limestone, clay, gravel and sand. Picked beginning of September to first 10 days of October. Soft pressing with a previous period of cold soaking. Slowly fermented in steel tanks at controlled temperatures. ‘A wine for la dolce vita’, says Marica Bonomo. ‘All our employees relax together at 6 o’clock after work. And this is the wine we drink which makes us happy.’ Marica says this keeps very well for three to four years or more because of the very low yields. RS 3 g/l.

This is, quite simply, delicious! My mouth instantly came alive. It reverberates with a golden-bright current of electricity. Like an electric guitar, like Alex Lifeson playing La Villa Strangiato. White flowers, yuzu, a little sting of nettles and a tiny bit of sweet sunflower seeds. Through the centre, a strong, certain core of shiny wet pebbles. This is such a joy! Proper vin de soif. The acidity is bright with just enough tension and edge to make the mouth water, but the fruit has a blossom-hazed softness that somehow makes every muscle relax. Perfect balance with such a neat finish. A happy, happy wine. And VGV at around £10 in the UK – really overdelivers at the price. (TC)

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